Bag Care Guide
Vegetable-tanned leather needs less care than most people think, and more patience. Here is everything we would tell you in person. If something here does not cover your situation, write to care@lietamilano.com with a photo — a person answers.
What to expect from the leather
Our bags are made principally in full-grain, vegetable-tanned Walpier Buttero calf, dyed all the way through. It is a living surface. In the first months it will pick up marks; over time it darkens, softens and takes on a sheen that no polish reproduces. That patina is the point of the material, not damage to it. We explain the process month by month in our guide to Buttero leather.
If you want a bag that looks exactly as it did on day one in five years, vegetable-tanned leather is the wrong material — from us or anyone.
Everyday care
Wipe it with a soft, dry cloth. That is most of the routine. Dust and grit are what dull a surface over time.
For a deeper mark, use a cloth that is barely damp — wrung out until it is almost dry — then let the leather air-dry naturally, away from direct heat.
Light scratches on full-grain leather usually work themselves out. Rub the scratch gently with a clean fingertip; the warmth and the natural oils of your skin move the surface fibres back together. Because the leather is dyed through, a scratch reveals more of the same colour, not a pale core.
Conditioning
About every six months, with a neutral (colourless) leather cream. No more often — over-conditioning is the most common way people damage good leather, leaving it soft, darkened and sticky.
- Test the cream on a hidden area first, such as the underside of the base, and wait a day.
- Apply a thin coat with a soft cloth in small circles. Thin is the word.
- Let it absorb for an hour or two.
- Buff lightly with a clean, dry cloth.
Condition a little sooner if the bag has been soaked by rain, or if you live somewhere very dry and the leather starts to feel tight.
Water and rain
Water marks on vegetable-tanned leather are real, so do not carry the bag as an umbrella. A few drops are fine.
If it gets wet: blot, do not rub, with a soft cloth. Stuff the bag loosely with paper so it keeps its shape, and let it dry slowly at room temperature. Never use a hairdryer or a radiator — fast drying is what cracks leather. Once fully dry, condition it lightly. Faint water marks usually soften as the patina develops.
Colour transfer
New, untreated leather can pick up dye from dark denim, and pale leather shows it most. It is most likely in the first few months, before the surface has burnished. Wear lighter colours against a new pale bag if you can. Once it has happened, a barely-damp cloth sometimes lifts it; often it settles into the patina.
Storage
- Keep it in its cotton dust bag, never in plastic — leather needs to breathe.
- Stuff it lightly with acid-free tissue, or the shaper insert where one is included, so a structured bag keeps its line.
- Store it upright on a shelf, not hanging by the handle for long periods.
- Keep it out of direct sun, which fades and dries leather unevenly, and away from radiators.
- Do not overfill a structured bag. It holds its shape best when it is not stretched.
Hardware and edges
Our hardware is solid brass, hand-plated. Wipe it with a dry, soft cloth. Do not use metal polish — it strips plating. Keep perfume and hand cream off it where you can.
The edges are hand-painted in three coats. If an edge is scuffed after heavy use, leave it rather than treating it at home; edge paint can be retouched, so write to us.
By bag
Smooth Buttero calf (The Lungo, The Piazza): everything above applies directly.
The Abbraccio: the wide shoulder yoke is suede-backed. Brush the suede side gently with a suede brush, and keep it away from water — suede marks more easily than smooth leather.
The Mercato: the monogram is a coated canvas. Brush it with a dry, soft brush; spot-clean with a barely-damp cloth and a little mild soap if needed. Do not soak it. Condition only the leather trim, about every six months, and store it flat in its dust bag.
What not to use
- Baby wipes, alcohol wipes or household cleaners
- Heavy oils such as mink oil or neatsfoot oil — they darken leather permanently
- Silicone or waterproofing sprays not made for vegetable-tanned leather
- Metal polish on the hardware
- Direct heat to dry it
If something goes wrong
If a piece develops a manufacturing defect, email care@lietamilano.com with photos and your order number. We arrange a free return and a repair, replacement or refund, and a two-year legal guarantee against defects applies to consumers under EU law. For wear and accidents, write to us anyway — we will tell you honestly what can be done.
Shipping and returns are covered in our FAQ.
The joy, not the markup.